This was an interesting post that generated a lot of response on twitter - http://exisweb.net/mobile-menu-abtest
I think the 'hamburger' backlash is well and truly on it's way, and it is hardly UX's finest moment if it turns out that sites implementing it have done so purely based on trend and common patterns, and not based on analytics.
As a slight aside, Lukew posted this yesterday, and although you could comment on the copy (Top ?!?!), it does seem to be another post, which is perhaps pointing out the obvious, if you can display the options.... display them.
Thought I'd share!